Sunday, January 9, 2005

Step 2. Altering the Marfy pattern

Here is the Issey Miyake jacket that inspired me:

Here is the Marfy pattern that I chose to make the jacket.

I did not want to use the Vogue pattern because I didn't like its style lines as well as the Marfy. Plus, I wanted to make a Marfy jacket to see how I liked their patterns.

When I first compared the size 42 Marfy pattern to my existing jacket patterns and jackets, I was afraid that it was too big in the upper bodice. I therefore made the jacket up in Patternease, using 1 inch seam allowances on all of the vertical seams. It turns out that these were the alterations that were made:

1. Shortened the shoulder seam by 3/4 inch. I did this by decreasing the Front/Middle Front seam at the shoulder and tapering to nothing at the apex of the bodice and about 5 inches down the back seam.

2. Added 1 inch at the apex of the bust, tapering to nothing in the upper bodice. I continued this added inch down through the waist and hips.

3. Added 1 inch at the side seams.

4. Added 1 inch to the undersleeve, tapering to nothing at the cuff, to compensate for the added width at the side seam in the armhole.

5. Cut 5/8 inch from the Center Back neckline, tapering to nothing at the shoulder seam. This is for comfort in wearing.

This results in a jacket that fits well in the upper bust, shoulders, and sleeves, and is slightly roomy in the waist and hips. I like leaving my master patterns this way (with a little fitting insurance) so that I can take the seams in as needed depending on the type of fabric used. I know I will be taking it in more in the waist and hips, but I prefer not to fit the master pattern too closely at this stage.

A picture of the Marfy pattern as it is received.

It is hard to imagine that such a small tissue packet holds an entire jacket. Here is some information about the Marfy patterns:

1. They are cut by hand

2. They have no seam allowances

3. They do not come with any pictures or pattern instructions. The picture is in the catalogue only.

4. They are marked with letters of the alphabet as to which pieces fit together. A to A, B to B, etc.

5. There are no pattern pieces for lining.

A picture of the Marfy pattern pieces, opened up.

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