Tuesday, January 11, 2005

Step 4. Making the lining pattern

Marfy patterns do not come with linings. To line my jacket, I had to make the following modifications to the existing pattern pieces:

1. Center front: None. The attached front facing (created in Step 3) extends to the seamline.

2. Middle front:: None.

3. Side front: added 1/2 inch to the side seam allowance at the underarm area, tapering to nothing at the waistline. This extra amount will be eased in when the lining sleeve is attached. It is added to allow a bit more roominess in the underarm area, so that the lining will not pull where the sleeve joins the underarm.

4. A back neck facing was drafted , using the center back pattern piece for a template. The depth of the facing is 3 1/2 inches, which includes a 5/8 inch seam allowance at the neckline and a 5/8 inch seam allowance where the lower edge of the facing attaches to the lining.

5. Side back: same as Side Front.

6. Middle back: None

7. Center back:

a. The center back seam allowance was increased to 1 1/2 inches to allow for a back pleat at the center back seam. This allowance started at the neckline and tapered to 5/8" at the waist.

b. The neckline of the Center Back was lowered 2 3/8", from center back seam to shoulder seam. This modified Center back piece includes the 5/8" seam allowance where it will attach to the back facing piece.

8. Upper sleeve: the vent is turned under and is not cut for the lining piece.

9. Under sleeve:

Note: the undersleeve does not have an underarm seam. The two piece sleeve has a front and a back seam.

a. the vent is turned under and not cut for the lining piece.

b. the underarm of the sleeve is raised 5/8 inch, tapering to nothing at about 2 inches on either side of the underarm piece. This allows for some extra room in the sleeve length as it attaches to the armhole at the underarm.

I cut my linings the same length as the jacket pattern pieces, for both the jacket body and the sleeves. This gives me some wiggle room for adjustments after the jacket construction is completed. That way, the lining can be more precisely trimmed when the it is attached to the jacket's torso and sleeve hems.

Additional Note: since I made a Patternease muslin, I know that I will not have to add any width to the jacket, so the seam allowances for the lining are 5/8". (If I had not previously fitted the jacket, I would cut 1 inch seam allowances on the shoulders and all of the vertical seams of the lining to allow for adjustments.)

I very likely will have to take the jacket in, especially in the upper abdomen, waist and hips, as it is fitted during the construction process. I plan on modifying the lining's seam allowances accordingly and/or creating small pleats in the lining for additional ease when it is inserted into the jacket.

No comments: